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Review: Maui Road Riding
Review: Maui Road Riding
For the cycling People of the North (i.e. Canadians), finding a reliable and enjoyable winter riding destination is a must. As a professional who's been skipping out on winter for the last 5-6 years, I've tried out my fair share of locations. SoCal, NorCal, South Carolina, Victoria (BC), Tucson, and most recently, Maui. For those whose interest is piqued by that last destination, here is a review of the road riding available on the island: the routes, what you'll need to know and bring, logistic positives and negatives, and suggestions for making a riding vacation/training camp work.

For the cycling People of the North (i.e. Canadians), finding a reliable and enjoyable winter riding destination is a must. As a professional who's been skipping out on winter for the last 5-6 years, I've tried out my fair share of locations. SoCal, NorCal, South Carolina, Victoria (BC), Tucson, and most recently, Maui. For those whose interest is piqued by that last destination, here is a review of the road riding available on the island: the routes, what you'll need to know and bring, logistic positives and negatives, and suggestions for making a riding vacation/training camp work. 

The Destination: The island of Maui, Hawaii

Maui is the next island west of the Big Island in the chain of Hawaiian islands. It is essentially two volcanos (an east and west one) attached by a valley in the middle. The east volcano - Haleakala - boasts the longest paved road climb in the world: ~55km and 3000m of elevation gain. West Maui is more rugged and rolling: you don't climb to the top of West Maui, but you can ride around the perimter. 

Where to Stay

If you're going to ride every day, I would recommend staying in the town of Paia. It is 15km from Kahului on the north shore and is a central spot for accessing both east and west Maui. It's a very funky little town, with a good grocery store, lots of shopping and restaurants, and a good vibe. There are also tons of sandy beaches along this part of the island for relaxing after you ride. The best grocery store in town is Mana Foods, though you could drive back into Kahului for a more Canadian supermarket. 

What to Know:

  • Maui is expensive. Be prepared to pay a lot for food and accommodation. However, the produce is mostly local and it's delicious!
  • You will likely need to rent a car no matter where you stay on Maui. 
  • The West shore is the ritzy resort area, the South shore has great (and calm beaches), the North shore has big winter swell (and thus lots of surfing), and the East of Maui is very remote. 
  • For the longer routes, it is good to have a bailout option (like a follow car, or a relative that has the capability to pick you up if things go awry). The backside of Haleakala is particularly remote.
  • The roads are very slippery when wet - so take care!
  • It can be very cold at the higher elevations on the volcano. 
  • It can be very windy - be prepared!

What to Bring:

  • A capable road bike. I would highly recommend disc brakes, as the roads here are very slippery when wet and you want confident and graduated braking when descending. 
  • American cash - lots of store stops/roadside stands on the island are cash only.
  • Spares of everything - tires, chain, etc. There are a lot of really good bike shops on the island (I would recommend Crater Cycles in Kahului), but if you're doing the more adventurous loops (like East Maui), be prepared for bike maintenance. 
  • Enough water bottles to have 3 on your bike/person at all times. 
  • A bike lock - in case you want to ride to a beach for a swim. 
  • All the usual essentials for a bike trip - plus a good attitude, preparedness for the wind, and a bathing suit. 

When to Go

If you're from Canada, I'm asssuming you'll be going during winter. The winter months in Maui (December-March) book up very quickly and can be very expensive - so book early. Be warned, the winds during the winter can be very high. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, and be prepared to ride early in the morning before the winds pick up. That being said, the air was still for our first week on the island... but the locals say we were just lucky. 

Pros: 

  • It's beautiful! And very warm. We had sun 12 of 14 days, and only minimal rain on the remaining two. 
  • The cars are usually quite respectful and friendly - mostly, they're tourists out to enjoy a cruise.
  • Lots of other activities available - surfing, SUPing, snorkelling, hiking, etc. 

Cons:

  • Cost - accommodation and food are expensive. However, flights can be very cheap. 
  • Limited number of rides (about 7 or 8, if you include riding them in reverse direction). However, this is still more variety than I've found in other places, like Tucson.
  • Wind
  • You do need a rental car

The Rides 

There are a limited number of rides, depending on your fitness level, eqiupment, and willingness to go adventuring. Here is a summary of all the routes we discovered.

  • West Maui: the West Maui loop is just that - a loop around all of West Maui. Starting in Paia, it is a 120km round trip and can be done either clockwise or counterclockwise. The best way to do the loop (for the most favourable winds) is clockwise. This also means that you get the highway sections out of the way at the beginning. The entire loop has about 1100m of gain, and takes 4-5 hours depending on winds. The later half of the ride (when going clockwise) is mostly single lane roads - and is very twisty. In other words, it's very fun - but be watchful for cars! They are mostly tourist drivers, so they're going pretty slow. There are plenty of vistas and pullouts to stop for a rest. About 84km into the ride (when going clockwise) is Julia's Banana Bread stand - apparently, the best Banana Bread in the world (and I can attest that it is pretty delicious). Bring cash and empty pockets - you have to buy it by the loaf!

  • Road to Hana: the Road to Hana is gorgeous. Starting in Paia, it is 140km round trip and about 2000m of elevation gain. Most tourists drive this loop, so it can be busy, but the cars go slow to take in the views. There are a lot of stone bridges on this loop, so be cautious if the road is wet. If you're REALLY adventurous, bring extra bibs and a plastic bag and stop midway for a swim in one of the countless roadside waterfalls and pools. Once in Hana, there are tons of places to stop for food and water. Expect to be on the road for 5-6.5 hours, depending on your fitness. 

  • The Crater: the crater ride is essentially an out-and-back up to the summit of Haleakala and back down. The climb itself is about 55km (if you start in the town of Paia) and goes up just over 3000m (sea level to 10 000 ft). For the most part, it is a gentle grade with lots of switchbacks. The top 500m are a bit steep, and it can be very windy/cold up here. Either make sure you have a car waiting for you at the top, or else bring lots of extra clothes on your person. Also, there are no food or water stops within 35 km of the summit, so be prepared. Prepare to climb for 4 hours or more to get all the way to the top from Paia. There is also a $10/rider fee to enter the top 25 km of the climb (it is a National Park, and your pass is good for 3 days - bring cash or credit). The descent back into Paia takes about 1-1.5 hours, but it is quite gradual and not overly technical. On the way back down, stop in the town of Makawao for coffee and a snack at "Sip Me" - about 15 km from Paia. From Paia, the total ride is 120km round trip, and about 5.5-6hrs. *Note: we made a mistake at the beginning of this ride, so follow our return route in reverse - do not take the section of highway that we took. 

  • Upcountry Maui: these loops are, interestingly, much more sheltered from the wind. As I mentioned, Maui can be extremely windy - but when you're in upcountry, you can completely forget that the air even moves. There are a ton of permutations of these rides - but expect lots of climbing and varied terrain. In one ride, you can ride through tropical jungle, Eucalyptus forests, grasslands, farms... basically every type of terrain. Below is one example of an upcountry ride starting from Paia. Expect the climbing here to be steeper than elsewhere on the island. Makawao is a good central point to stop for refuelling midway through the ride. 

  • East Maui: this is an EPIC loop. From Paia, it is ~175km round trip and ~2900m of elevation gain. Basically, it is a ride around the entirety of the Haleakala volcano. The loop can be ridden in either direction (counter clockwise or clockwise), but is easiest going counter clockwise (you get most of the tough climbing down in the first 2 hours, instead of at the end). Bring lots of food and water - going clockwise, the first store stop is about 110km into the ride in the town of Hana. Also make sure to bring plenty of tubes and a pump/CO2s - there is a 15km section of the ride on the backside of the volcano that is dirt/the worst pavement you've ever seen (but the rest of the road is pristine!). For this reason, I'd also suggest a high volume tire. Going clockwise, you'll hit the rough stuff at about km 65 (and you'll know when you've hit it!). Though the ride is tough and not for the faint of heart, you'll feel like you own the world back there. Amazing views of rugged coastline, lava fields, dense jungle in parts, and gorgeous rolling roads. The last 70km of the ride takes you from Hana and back to Paia along the famous "Hana Highway". If you have the stamina, you don't want to miss this ride. Expect to be out there for 7-9 hours - with the amount of climbing, it's not a particularly fast route. But it is well worth it!

  • The Whole Thing: this is one ride that we did not accomplish while we were in Maui - and it is definitely only for the crazy people. Basically, this ride is a combination of West Maui, East Maui, and the Crater. If you're hairbrained enough to entertain this ride, then I'll leave the planning up to you!

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